Crispy, Juicy Sio Bak & Har Cheong Gai Rice Bowls For $9.90 By Ex-Tung Lok Chef In CBD Eatery

Quiet CBD mall Havelock II is turning out to be quite the hotspot for home-based businesses looking to spread their wings. Meet one-month-old Ten Tenths, a compact 10-seater offering “Cantonese-style” rice bowls topped with har cheong gai, sio bak and char siew. It joins the likes of fusion Portuguese egg tart store Mother-In-Law Egg Tart and fellow char siew specialist Char Seal Bar  – both once also HBBs – in the mall.

Dorcas Gan, 40, runs the show alongside business partner Jeffery Ting, 39 – but it’s her younger brother, Wilson (below, far left), 38, who calls the shots in the kitchen. The latter worked as a chef several years ago manning the barbecue station at Wan Hao Chinese Restaurant in Marriott Tang Plaza Hotel for two years. He also held a similar post for another two years at TungLok Signatures restaurant in Clarke Quay.

If you’re wondering about Ten Tenths’ unusual name, Dorcas explains that it is translated from shi fen shi, which means 10 out of 10 in mandarin. 

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Ten Tenths started out as a home-based biz

Like many other home-based businesses, Ten Tenths’ story began during the pandemic. Malaysian-born Dorcas’ commercial kitchen equipment biz, which she co-owns with Jeffery (far right), “was very badly affected” once Covid-19 spread its insidious wings. “There wasn’t any business because restaurants were closing,” she explains simply. “It was a nightmare then – we had to chase a lot of businesses for money [owed to us].”

Her woes intensified when her mum, whom Dorcas lived with, got into an accident in late 2020. Wilson, then living in Johor after quitting his job at Wan Hao, returned to Singapore to accompany her – though sadly, their mother soon passed on.

Dorcas, now a Singaporean citizen, explains how that eventually led to a HBB: “My mum used to be the one cooking at home. But after she passed on, I started cooking dinner every day and since my brother [was around], he taught me how to cook roast pork and char siew.” It took a long time before she grew confident of her culinary skills. So it was only in January this year that she decided to start her home-based business to earn extra income during weekends.

Industry contacts came in handy

Demand for the roast meats quickly outstripped her home kitchen’s capacity – after three short months, Dorcas took the plunge and opened “a proper shop” alongside business partner Jeffery. While their kitchen equipment gig is still in operation — it has taken a backseat for now, says Dorcas, because the pandemic and ensuing late payments she received from clients made her realise that the biz wasn’t viable in the long run.

But why get into F&B after personally witnessing the rise – and fall – of so many food-related businesses during the era of Covid-19? Dorcas explains: “After years of helping other F&B businesses set up their kitchen, we got to see how they operate. The things you need, what to expect.”

“The second thing is we know a lot of F&B people, so we can save a lot of money. I went around to get a few quotations for our space, just to get a good estimate – I was quoted $80K for renovations alone,” she continues. “But our entire space, including equipment, cost us about $50K”. Not bad for a simple but tastefully decorated eatery that looks like a cafe-cum-food court. 

Finally, she chirps: “Also, never try never know. If the food quality is there, the business will succeed. I’m confident [of our offerings].”

Ex-restaurant chef brother helms kitchen

To strengthen the team, she roped in her bro Wilson, who was then working as a Grab delivery rider  — he says he couldn't find a suitable job as a chef that had a higher salary than a Grab delivery man’s. He explains: “I had to help lah. My sister has only cooked at home [where the food was pre-ordered] – the pressure when you’re trying to cook [a la minute] with customers waiting outside for food is completely different. If I don’t help, I’ll be very worried for her.” So Wilson does most of the cooking here, while Dorcas and Jeffery help out when they’re not dealing with their other biz.

The trio chose Havelock II for its “very reasonable” rental rates and a “pretty good” lunch crowd, and sell about 30 bowls a day now – much better than a month ago, when they sold only five a day. Dorcas shrugs, saying: “It’s too early to talk about breaking even [our capital]. We know that we need to tahan for a minimum of three to six months to even see if the business is viable,” adding that she plans to use their central location as a base for delivery and events catering.

The menu

Some roast meat recipes here are adapted from Wilson’s restaurant days. For example, they opted to use a combi oven instead of a gas oven to steam-roast their meats for “better texture”. The menu is centered around rice bowls, all priced at $9.90 each, along with some noodle options. You can also order the roast meats a la carte – the Cantonese Roast Pork Belly costs $30 for a “four-to-six-person portion”, while the Signature Spicy Char Siu is a little cheaper at $24 for roughly the same size. 

Cantonese Crispy Roast Pork Belly with Fragrance Rice, $9.90 (8 DAYS Pick!)

Ten Tenths’ sio bak is excellent, with resoundingly crunchy crackling that gives way to distinct layers of unctuous fat and lean but still tender meat. The protein is just salted enough to complement the natural flavour of the pork and good on its own. But it’s even better paired with a bracing ginger scallion sauce, which cuts through the fat nicely.

The “fragrance rice” lives up to its moniker too. Thai Jasmine rice is first stir-fried with butter and aromatics like garlic and ginger before being cooked with chicken stock, yielding a fluffy, moreish bowl that doesn’t sit too heavily on the stomach. Other accompaniments include a jammy-yolked boiled egg, piquant housemade achar and cabbage soup – a well-executed rice bowl that we’ll happily eat again.

Signature Spicy Char Siew with Fragrance Rice, $9.90

Dorcas tells us that there’s no worry about competition from nearby roast meat joint Char Seal Bar, as their char siew is “very different” from Ten Tenths’: Wilson marinates pork belly overnight with black pepper, Sichuan peppercorns and around “ten other ingredients”, before cooking it sous vide and finishing in the oven. 

The result, though, is… a little disappointing. While the char siew beckons invitingly with what seems like an inky char against glistening layers of fat, what we actually get is an overwhelming black pepper profile that drowns out any sweet or smoky notes. The lean bits are a tad dry too. Go for the yummier siew yoke.

Deep Fried Har Cheong Chicken Cutlet with Fragrance Rice, $9.90 (8 DAYS Pick!)

While most zi char renditions of har cheong gai we’ve tried usually feature craggy-skinned chook saturated in umami prawn paste, Ten Tenths’ version boasts a more restrained funk. Not that it isn’t still delish, as the chicken thigh fillet remained crisp and juicy even after our photo shoot. Dip it into the sweet-tangy chilli sauce on the side for extra zing. 

Roast Spicy Pork Ribs, $42.90/rack

As the baby back ribs are marinated overnight before being cooked sous vide for “at least 16 hours”, this option usually needs to be pre-ordered two days in advance. The pork ribs are succulent and fork tender, but bogged down by the same peppery glaze as the char siew.

Fried Mee Siam, $5.90

Though dry mee siam isn’t exactly on theme, Dorcas shares that they introduced the dish to cater to “office ladies who insist on eating noodles”. An adaptation of their late mum’s recipe, expect a plate of sweetish, mildly spicy vermicelli heavy with the scent of dried shrimp and tau cheo (fermented soybean), topped with shredded egg and tau pok – surprisingly yummy, considering Ten Tenths brands itself as a Cantonese-focused joint.

The drinks

The drinks sold here are pretty much “whatever I know how to make”, admits Jeffery, who’s in charge of beverages at Ten Tenths (though he later adds that he’s experimenting with a “Hong Kong-style milk tea”). We try the Frothy Coffee ($3.50) – remember 2020’s super-trendy dalgona coffee? – and Honey Lemon Tea ($2.50). Though eye-catching, both drinks are a little too sweet.

Bottom line

If you find yourself in the area — pop by for Ten Tenths’ satisfyingly crisp, succulent sio bak on tasty ‘chicken rice’ pimped with butter. If you need some variety, get the yummy har cheong gai instead of the overly peppery char siew.

The details

Ten Tenths is at B1-25, Havelock II, 2 Havelock Rd, S059763. Open daily except Sun 11.30am – 3pm; 5pm – 8pm. Tel: 8363-2100. More info via Facebook. Delivery via Foodpanda.

Photos: Alvin Teo