Ex-Koji Sushi Bar Chef Opens Affordable Omakase Restaurant, Prices from $88 Per Head
Like “cheap” and “petrol”, omakase and the phrase “wallet-friendly” aren’t often mentioned in the same sentence these days. You can hardly brandish a $100 note at those atas Japanese restaurants and expect to be fed, since a meal there usually runs at least 200 bucks.
But at sushi-ya Unkai Sushi, $88 gets you an omakase set with an appetiser, 10 types of sushi, a handroll, and miso soup plus dessert (there are also $138 and $188 sets). The new 30-seater at Orchard Rendezvous hotel is helmed by young sushi chef Eugene Lam, 30, who has a dozen years of experience in the kitchens of Hide Yamamoto, Sushi Mieda and Ashino.
Koji Sushi Bar alum
Prior to starting his own eatery, he had also worked as a sushi chef at Koji Sushi Bar, the casual chain known for its affordable menu and excellent rice. Which would explain why rice – just as important as the seafood topping for sushi – is also a particular focus at Unkai, and for which chef Eugene seasons with two types of vinegar.
All about vinegar and rice
Only two varieties of rice from Hokkiado are used here - nanatsuboshi (glossy, fluffy rice that’s not too sticky) and yumeipirika (known for its sweet flavour and soft, sticky texture). The grains are flavoured with either conventional white vinegar for milder-tasting white fish, or akasu red vinegar (made with sake lees left over from sake-brewing) for fatty fish like tuna.
The look
Unlike traditional swish sushi temples, Unkai Sushi is decidedly less posh and formal. While there’s still counter seating where you can watch the chefs in action, the walls are adorned with casual details like a colourful chalkboard menu.
The menu
Other than omakase, the restaurant also offers a selection of well-priced donburis like Pork Cheek Rice Bowl ($26) with an onsen egg, Salmon & Roe Don ($28), Chirashi Don ($30) with marinated salmon, tuna and mekajiki (swordfish fillet) and Unajyu ($28), grilled unagi and rice served in a lacquer box. There’s also a luxe Wagyu Don ($58) and sashimi platters (from $20 for five pieces).
Air-freighted seafood from Japan
Chef Eugene flies in his seafood four times a week, “on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays” from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market (formerly known as the famed Tsukiji Market, before it moved to the Toyosu neighbourhood) and Osaka.
Magic Bowl
The $138 and $188 omakase sets also come with a Magic Bowl, the chef’s proprietary mini kattedon. Each bowl comes with his choice of fresh seasonal ingredients - ours had Hokkaido uni, ikura and abalone innards nestling on nutty rice scattered with crispy fried tempura bits. Pretty good.
House-smoked otoro
There’s also house-smoked otoro (fatty tuna belly), which the chef preps right in front of you.
#01-10 Orchard Rendezvous Hotel, 1 Tanglin Rd, S247905. Tel: 9634-8508. Open daily 11.30am-2.30pm; 6pm-10pm (last order at 9pm). www.unkai.com.sg.
Photos: Yip Jieying/ Unkai Sushi
