A nose for the niche: Why artisanal perfumes are becoming more popular now

There’s no denying the power that scents have. A whiff of an alluring perfume can turn heads, evoke emotions and leave a lasting impression, making it an important part of our beauty and style regimen. While designer fragrances have always been sought after for their accessibility as well as their association with popular fashion brands and celebrities, an increasing number of people have been discovering the wonders of niche or artisanal scents.

Respecting the art of perfume-making, artisanal perfumeries pay great attention to detail and to the techniques and processes involved in creating luxurious fragrances. Working in small batches, they use premium ingredients to craft unique and long-lasting scents which are nuanced in their make-up and embody a distinctive character.

Well-loved artisanal perfumery L’Artisan Parfumeur recently launched in Singapore, their first store in Southeast Asia, to bring their scents closer to fragrance enthusiasts in the region.

Thomas James, chief brand officer of L’Artisan Parfumeur, said: “Singaporean consumers have, over the last few years, become increasingly exposed to niche fragrance brands and turned into real fragrance connoisseurs. They are not only showing an interest in fragrances but also a willingness to wear more unique and elevated scents."

The launch sees the brand joining a host of other niche brands such as Penhaligon’s, Byredo and Serge Lutens, which have already made their presence felt here.

DISTINCTIVE SCENTS THAT ARE INFUSED WITH STORIES AND MEANING

James said that while designer scents will continue to appeal to the masses, niche perfumes which are based on the principles of the art of perfumery are gaining a greater following as more people seek to express themselves with a distinctive and original scent.

“We see a search for authenticity and meaningfulness in fragrances. So, customers tend to turn towards niche fragrances as they are more and more educated.”

Stories are an important part of artisanal perfumes and many are crafted around a narrative or theme, giving it depth and meaning. At L’Artisan Parfumeur, which believes in giving perfumers the creative freedom to express their vision, perfumers of each scent are celebrated by having their names on the boxes of the fragrances.

“This is not only a very different approach in the market but, we believe, also a wonderful way to tell our stories and inspire consumers to travel through scents," said James.

He explained that each fragrance is created as a result of a dialogue with a perfumer, without any influence by trends. “We are pursuing this legacy in our approach, pushing the boundaries of perfume creation with the use of vegetable notes for the Le Potager or the peach note of A Fleur de Peche. This is where our uniqueness lies and differentiates us from certain more commercial fragrances that sometimes rely more on marketing and trends.”

Here's a list of artisanal perfume brands to check out:

AMOUAGE

Amouage is a luxury fragrance house established in the Sultanate of Oman in 1983 to create finely crafted perfumes that combine the opulence of the East and West. The house showcases the Arabian art of perfumery with a modern and creative touch.

Available at Escentials

BYREDO

Brainchild of artist and former basketball player, Ben Gorham, who is of Canadian-Indian descent, this Swedish perfumery blends the mystique of the East with the modernity of the West. The brand is committed to sourcing the finest ingredients and the olfactory compositions are deeply influenced by Gorham’s roots.

Available at Escentials

CREED

Founded by James Creed in the 1700s, this British perfumery was known to supply scents to royalty, including Queen Victoria. The company has remained in the Creed family, with Oliver Creed at the helm who continues to maintain the traditional practices of weighing, mixing and filtering components by hand.

Available at Escentials

DIPTYQUE

This luxury French fragrance house was founded in 1961 in Paris. While the brand now has boutiques all over the world, it has maintained its original store in Paris. Focused on the sensorial experience, the company is well known for its fragrances, scented candles and oil diffusers.

Available at Diptyque

EDITIONS DE PARFUMS FREDERIC MALLE

Started by Frederic Malle, an authority on perfume-making, this fragrance house focuses on creative freedom and uncompromised quality, putting the perfumers front and centre and featuring fine ingredients in distinctive creations.

Available at Escentials

L'ARTISAN PARFUMEUR

Since it was founded in 1976 by perfumer Jean Laporte, this fragrance house has been true to its philosophy of creating authentic fragrances that feature nature’s wonders which are expertly crafted into distinctive scents by skilled perfumers.

Available at L’Artisan Parfumeur

Launched in 2006 in New York City, this perfumery melds traditional craftsmanship with a modern aesthetic, with the aim to revolutionise an industry that is over-saturated with mass-produced perfumes. The brand focuses on pure ingredients and in-store perfume blending.

Available at Le Labo

MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN

Most would know this house’s popular Baccarat Rouge 540 which went viral on TikTok. Created by master perfumer Francis Kurkdjian and co-founder and CEO Marc Chaya, this Paris-based fragrance house’s aim is to bring joy with their scents and celebrates the freedom of choice.

Available at Maison Francis Kurkdjian

PENHALIGON’S

William Penhaligon founded his eponymous company in the 1800s, first as a barbershop in the UK. The company is now known for its perfumes made of premium ingredients like the finest jasmine and hand cold-pressed bergamot.

Available at Sephora

SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

Founded in 1221 as a Dominican friars conventum in Florence, Italy, Santa Maria Novella is a high-end beauty brand that has survived the plague, the Italian wars throughout the Renaissance, two world wars and political upheavals. While it has always been known for its scented waters and colognes, it was only in 2022 that it launched its collection of Eau de Parfums featuring ingredients such as iris and magnolia.

Available at Escentials

SERGE LUTENS

This luxury perfume brand creates distinctive thought-provoking scents that feature an array of intoxicating florals, fruits, spices and woods that form eclectic, complex and interesting concoctions.

Available at Escentials